Oh! What a change ..2 [Madurai]

 Oh! What a change ..2  [Madurai]

As I slide down the memory lane, apart from the  ‘ala carte’ that I mentioned, there have been  a number of static eateries that cater to clientele who prefer to be under a roof and comfortably[honourably] seated for the few minutes of their visit almost daily between 3.30 and 4.00 pm for the nice preparations typical of those eateries.

At least three of them I am able to recall as ‘Gomathy vilas’ ‘Srinivasa Iyengar’ and Gopu Iyengar; the last of these  has  a frightening portrait of Gopu Iyengar –a hybrid image partly hand-drawn and the basic photo image complementing each other. To-date,  it hangs in place as a monumental relic of at least 55 years + based on my  memory of  the place sarting sometime in 1967. They revel in making the harsh chutney of green chillies meant to reviving any dead intestines as a mere side-dish to their vellai appam or their Brinjal bajji . Somehow,  all such eateries make a drink - an apology for a coffee; yet as a formal ‘closure item’ visitors take a cup of coffee; honestly, every other item served in these places boasts of a traditional taste that is a product of genuine inheritance!

Another odd item marketed in areas around ‘Amman Sannadhi’ is Coconut bud; it is the growing zone of a coconut tree which is fallen or struck by lightning. The young terminal is laid on a cart and covered by a cloth to shield it from drying. It is sold as a thin slice sheared by a sharp knife.

Being a growth point, the tissue is soft, fleshy , watery rich in minerals and sugar. The very unusual nature of the stuff readily markets itself as a a ‘strange’ delicacy.  

Curiously, Madurai people have a clear preference for ‘Halwa’ marketed by different firms ; there are versions like wheat halwa, Cahewnut halwa and the ‘domestic species—“Bheema Pushti’ halwa.Each halwa maker calls self a ‘Halwa King’ be it Nagappattinam nei mittai kadai or ‘Happyman Iyengar halwa shop, or ‘Prema vilas’ and the unknown authors of ‘Bheema pushti’ recipe.

‘Bheema pushti’ halwa is highly localised to areas around Meenakshi temple especially East Chitrai street and occasional ones on East Avani moola street; also there are innumerable outlets marketing Pakoda, Mrukku, Kara sevu,Milagu Sevu, Butter sevu and all kinds of Boondhi.

Madurai men and women never feel shy of munching items right in front of those outlets. To-date, such eatables are liberally available at a moderate costs except that one has to exercise modesty in eating an item or two at a time. Can anyone imagine of 3 or 4 vadais or Bondos for Rs 10/- fresh from the oven? Salted-boiled Peanuts is common in Madurai, elsewhere one generally  gets roasted peanuts.

Literally every 10-15 feet on any major thoroughfare, eateries and coffee /tea stalls abound –even to-day. That is Madurai. All visitors are overwhelmed by the variety and hospitality besides the affordable cost. No wonder all streets are always crowded. There is more to it .

To continue    

Prof. K. Raman