MADURAI EATERIES --II

 

Madurai Eateries – II

An obvious curiosity for non-Madurai readers would be –what is that makes Madurai a prestigious destination for snack eaters? I am duty bound to alert readers that not just snacks every item of any description known across the state has a place or two in Madurai which specialize in those items. Hotels also provide delicacies typical to their popularity. Often a ‘talking point’ about Madurai food hubs is the range of side –dishes served with Idli, Dosai or the various species thereof. Yes, under the generic item named Idli or Dosai a variety of formulations is common. A colourful presentation of side-dishes takes the new visitor by storm and [s]he looks in disbelief as to what if a heavy bill awaits us soon after. Often the visitor is delightfully surprised that there is no extra-cost on account of the side- dish varieties. It is logical to recognize that the visitor is tempted to visit the place again at least once before [s]he leaves for the next place.

An assertion would just be in place, if I make it clear that a common trend in all eateries –hotels, stalls or carts and such other short term arrangements, courteous addressing of the visitor is conspicuous by dominance. The same is unmistakably felt by visitors from Chennai. Obviously, Chennai has a ‘culture’ of its own –the likes of which none prefers. Being used to high pricing in their places, visitors feel special warmth in polite utterance and in reasonable pricing of items, though good quality and courteous service are sustained.

A funny trend in Madurai -- ‘vadai’ is a delicacy in both the morning and in the evening, though several other items are preferred only in the evenings. The beverage named ‘badhaam milk’ is an evening item, so also ‘Jigarthanda’.

One need not conclude that eateries like the stalls alone help people. A number of outfits-the hotels do thrive.  In several localities, they function on a full time basis; they too have rapport with their customers. Largely, the rapport is from the delicacy they have specialized on. For instance, a 100+ year old eatery –M/S Gopu iyengar hotel has die-hard fans who throng the place around 3-00 pm with fond desire of ‘ vellai appam with Kaara [hot] chutney ‘ which can activate digestive mechanisms that have become dormant for 10 +years. Enzymes would gush by the sheer chilli force that instantly works. On certain days they make ‘jeera bholi” –another favorite of customers. Likewise, several small outfits have picked a reputation for items like Wheat halwa, mixture, ‘kaara sevu’ and other specific items. There are shops in vogue since 1880 or so and are viewed with respect for their antiquity and long-standing reputation.

Some shops offer puddings in rice / ragi [called ‘puttu’ in vernacular] and some fine noodle-like Idiyappam – a steam baked rice noodle. Quite a few sellers make ragi vadai, greens vadai and cooked pulses [sundal in vernacular] and coconut –jaggery stuffed coconut bholi.

Cotton-seed extract [paruththippaal] is peculiar to Madurai. The concoction is largely made of cotton seed extract, gently boiled in low heat and blended with jiggery or palm sugar, dry ginger [chukku] and pepper –a combination suggested to alleviate throat congestion/ disorders.

One may wonder how often in a week can one take trips to these places to taste all these. All these items and their social popularity have been assessed over the years. Outstation friends, please make it a point to try some of these in your next trip to Madurai and carry delightful memories. I am reminded of a local saying, which suggests ‘EVEN AN ASS ROAMING AROUND IN MADURAI WOULD SELDOM CHOOSE TO GO ELSEWHERE’. If so, what to say of the people deeply entrenched with Madurai ethos?

Prof K.Raman