COFFEE

COFFEE

Coffee is not a pan-Indian beverage; it is quite popular in pockets of Southern India, with a clear presence in parts of Karnataka and parts of Tamil Nadu. Ironically many consumers of coffee are somewhat ignorant of what genuine coffee is. A brown concoction derived by mixing a dark brown extract [coffee decoction] with a copious quantity of milk is served in eateries in the name of coffee. For die-hard addicts of coffee, the product served in such eateries is just an ‘apology’ for coffee. The easiest way to irritate such die-hard fans of coffee is to serve them with the stuff described above. Is it that eateries indulge in exercises of ‘cheating’? In fairness to them it has to be recognized that they have no idea of making ‘genuine’ coffee. But, unhesitatingly they market the liquid, since most consumers are themselves ignorant of true coffee and for long have been into inferior stuff, little realizing their folly. 

Even more irritating and flagrantly so is ‘delivering instant coffee in the name’ of coffee. It is time the industry came out with a distinct terminology to segregate the ‘instant’ version from true coffee. In my submission, instant coffee is a fake product that imitates coffee flavor and instantly irritates the lovers of true coffee. Many consumers sip with delight the instant version and are blissful about it. The blessed ‘blissful’ population silently lends credence to the belief that coffee is what comes in the instant version. The scale of ignorance can be readily perceived if we observe their utterance 'dikkasiyen' - a crude reference to 'decoction' of coffee. Coffee powder does not dissolve even in boiling water; how is it that instant version forms a solution in milk with a pale semblance of coffee flavour. It simulates coffee looks but does not stimulate the senses as is readily done by true coffee. I trust to have drawn the lines clear. The quantum of effort and labour in making ‘true coffee’ is perhaps a strong disincentive to field the true stuff. But, there are eateries which go all out to woo their clientele by excellent formulation of true coffee. Actually, they engage good formulators of coffee decoction to ensure the right product so that the fidelity of the product is consistent in terms of taste and aroma. In fact, the true coffee is a winner by its genuine aroma that scores over every other version of coffee.

TRUE COFFEE

As the name goes, it is derived by extraction of coffee ‘decoction’ by subjecting coffee powder to either steam or boiling water which traverses through a thick pad-like packing of powder. Hot water / steam help to extract coffee essence in the form of a liquid typical in aroma. The process is done by either ‘Percolator’ or by Coffee Filter’. So, true coffee is often addressed as ‘Filter coffee’. Since the decoction is a hot extract, it is rich in aroma and the ‘FIRST EXTRACT’ is the ‘BEST EXTRACT’  If one manages to pitch on the first extract [first decoction in common par lance], [s]he would soon get addicted; such addicts are never enticed by any other product in the name of coffee. Precisely the lingering aroma and lasting taste of true coffee keep it on a pedestal of victory with anything else –as a distant third. Is it that every time filter coffee is unconquered? No, to be of that status , quite a few exercises of meandering process/ procedure has to be in place beginning with the choice of ‘coffee beans’. Coffee bean is the name of massive coffee seeds within the fruit. I deem them ‘massive’ because the seeds nearly fill the fruit. It is the ‘seed quality’ that confers aroma on to the extract. First grade seeds are largely exported and just a small quantity comes to domestic consumers. Second best versions are not sent for global market; they fill the domestic needs. Among them ‘Arabica’ is aromatic and ‘Robusta’ gives denser extract; so, the latter is used in different proportions to characterize the flavor typical to a brand / version. The most critical step to success is the ‘degree of roasting’ of coffee seeds. They are roasted till brown and not ‘charred’.  The extent of correct roasting releases the oil content and enhances the aroma. The seeds are then powdered fine and marketed as coffee powder. Sellers formulate their own seed combinations and try to maintain typical aroma of the powder. Depending on personal preference, people opt for specific versions of coffee powder. The chosen powder is ‘filtered’ by pouring boiling water to make decoction by downward percolation. 

As said EARLIER, THE FIRST DECOCTION IS PRESTIGEOUS. Some families take pride saying ‘we don’t use second decoction’ in our house. But, what matters is the quality of bean powdered for use and the right level of roasting the bean.  There are different schools of thought debating ‘if milk to be added to decoction or decoction to be delivered to a container of milk. Excellent decoctions are just added to milk drop by drop until the right shade of brown emerges with an enticing aroma-hard to resist. Minimum sugar is sure to add to taste. High doses of sugar ruin the stuff and make it lose its aroma and the lingering taste thereof. So, coffee- making is an exercise of abundant caution and likely to misfire at the slightest pretext. But die-hard fans of coffee do not compromise, as for them the day does not dawn without coffee.

Prof. K. Raman