Oh! What a change ..3

Oh! What a change ..3

In his response to my first episode on this topic, Dr. K. Venkataraman has opined that ‘Paruththippaal’ has been replaced by ‘kambangoozh ‘ or millet porridge. Well, neither seem to fade off holding firm their forte through best parts of the city; may be they share specific zones like Simmakkal, Mission hospital,   Tiruuparankundram or areas around Harveypatti, Harvey nagar, Pudur etc.,I do not visualize the decline of the two until atleast the raw materials –Cotton seed,Millet are out of production. The kambangoozh business is out of a propagated view that native cereals are good for health; with no preaching, however –young and old throng liquour outlets , with the list growing by more women taking to the state of inebriation probably as a mark of gender equality!

Leaving aside those aberrations, still one can manage to land on good food stuff for lunch or Dinner or breakfast. Of late, one has to be doubly cautious to ascertain if the place is a pure vegetarian outlet or one catering to ‘all needs’. The problem is more for the tribe called vegetarians while the other is delighted at the thought of non-vegetarian dishes; any way Madurai is a heaven for Non-vegetarian die-hards as well. One thing that unfailingly draws attention is the marketing of mountains of vadai –both of black gram and of mixed pulses.  Either of them is devoured in quanity across the city – a typical Madurai culture for breakfast.

I recall rather unbelievably that a meal could be had at Re- 0.50 , or Re 0.55, or Re 0.75. The last of them was at the prestigious Sri Ram Mess , the ohers were the now defunct Modern Lodge and SS café.  Sri Ram mess has become a true mess with nothing to proclaim of its grandeur-so vivid  till 1980s and beyond. The meal rates quoted are for one-time consumer/ consumption. For monthly card holders there used to be a remission of Rs 3 to Rs 4/- as a strategy of building clientele ; there used to be a prominent sign outside these eateries reading "தயிருடன் சாப்பாடு"[ meal with Curd] probably a bait to invite paasers by. Despite being a public eatery,  Sri Ram mess imposed restrictions on customers ‘not to wash the banana leaf on your table’ and drain the water below on the floor. The food-serving staff would plant their feet on water drained on the floor making the place look dirty and dissuade customers from visiting the place. The owner of the firm would rush towards anyone who attempts washing the leaf and tell with folded hands       “ Sir, we have ourselves thoroughly washed and have swept them clean, eat with all assurance of hygiene’. For a 0.75 paise meal, a cup of soup, oil fried- vaththal- sundai, or koththavarai or Thamaraikkizhangu [lotus root] was a special item daily. The then food was excellent and the owner used to convince the visitor that all items served are cooked by their women; in fact, one could see them preparing items to ensure steady supply of dishes by making extra quantity as required.  Now – the defunct places look respectable with no sheen or delight of Sri Ram Mess food –as of now. Like all items of pristine glory, Sri Ram mess was once deemed expensive by an additional 0.25 paise per meal. Now a meal is billed at Rs 100/- or more causing nausea in place of nostalgia. Who can forget the then “College house coffee?” Till around 1985 orso, coffee served in College house had a rich taste /flvaour that people used to take delight calling it ‘College House Coffee’. College house stays in place .. but coffee?  Despite its prime location, College houses ceases to hold its place of pride having fallen several fathoms from its status for quality.

To continue

Prof. K. Raman